Vallisaari vs Suomenlinna: Which Helsinki Island Should You Visit?

A million people visit Suomenlinna every year. A hundred thousand visit Vallisaari. The islands are one kilometre apart — you can see one from the other. But standing on Suomenlinna’s fortress walls, built by Augustin Ehrensvärd in 1748, feels nothing like standing on Vallisaari’s terrace, where the sommelier is pouring a Nerello Mascalese while the DJ plays something slow and the forest grows through the bunkers behind you.

One is a UNESCO monument to 250 years of military history. The other is a military island that was locked away for 200 years and reopened in 2016 with a wine bar, 400 wild plant species, and a salmon soup that strangers will tell you about unprompted. They’re both worth visiting. But for very different reasons.

How they compare

Suomenlinna and Vallisaari are fundamentally different experiences sharing the same archipelago. Both depart from Kauppatori (Market Square) by ferry. Both are car-free. That’s where the similarities end.

Vallisaari, when…

Vallisaari is the right choice when you want an experience that doesn’t exist anywhere else in Helsinki — or anywhere else in Europe. A tenth of Suomenlinna’s visitors means trails where you might not see another person and terraces where you can actually sit down.

You want quiet. On a Friday afternoon, you can walk an entire nature trail without seeing anyone. Thirty hectares of wild forest, 18th-century powder cellars, coastline. The kind of solitude that takes planning in most cities and happens here by accident.

You want wine. The sommelier picks six wines every week and goes table to table telling the producer’s story. The DJ plays between pours. Merinäkymäterassi — a sea-view terrace where the midnight sun turns the water gold. This format exists nowhere else.

You want the salmon soup. The chef at IISI Bistro, Torpedolahti harbour. Google 4.7/5. Creamy, savoury, fresh bread, dock terrace. The meal people mention for weeks.

You want a story to tell. An island locked behind military gates for over 200 years, where the forest grew through the bunkers and 400 plant species evolved without humans. That story tells itself.

Suomenlinna, when…

Suomenlinna is the right choice when you want history you can walk through — 250 years of it, spread across six islands, recognised by UNESCO since 1991.

You love military history. Augustin Ehrensvärd built it in 1748 to defend Sweden from Russia. Kuninkaanportti (King’s Gate), fortress walls you can walk, a dry dock from the 1760s that still works, a church that doubles as a lighthouse. Three hours isn’t enough.

You’re travelling with small children. More playgrounds, more museums, more things to keep a five-year-old’s attention. Vallisaari’s nature trails are beautiful but less structured for kids.

You’re visiting in winter. Suomenlinna is open year-round. Vallisaari closes in October and doesn’t reopen until May.

The real answer: do both

The best day trip in Helsinki combines both islands in six hours. You start on Ehrensvärd’s fortress walls in the morning. By afternoon you’re on a different island entirely, eating salmon soup on a harbour dock while the DJ plays on a terrace a hundred metres away. The centuries between the two islands feel longer than the kilometre of water separating them. Some ferry routes connect them directly — no return to the mainland needed.

1. Morning (3–4h): Suomenlinna — fortress, museums, dry dock, the church-lighthouse
2. Afternoon (3–4h): Vallisaari — nature trails, salmon soup at the bistro, the terrace
3. Evening: Wine tasting (Fri/Sat) or DJ Sunset on the terrace

Full day trip guide

Oliver Laiho · IISI Vallisaari · Updated for summer 2026 with AI assistance.